Mudjacking vs polyjacking: which lift is right for you?

How each method works

Both methods do the same basic thing. A crew drills holes through the sunken slab, pumps material underneath, and the pressure lifts the slab. The difference is the material.

Mudjacking pumps a cement-based slurry, usually water, soil, sand and cement, under high pressure. The slurry fills voids and lifts the slab, the holes are patched, and the surface is usable within about 24 hours^[2]. The Foundation Performance Association (FPA) describes the slurry as sand, fly ash or topsoil mixed with cement^[1].

Polyjacking pumps a urethane-based foam that expands under the slab. The expansion lifts the slab, and after the injection the lifted area sits on the foam^[1]. It cures in about 15 minutes^[2].

Side-by-side comparison

	Mudjacking	Polyjacking
Cost per sq ft (HomeGuide, Nov 2025)	$4 to $9[2]	$8 to $25[2]
Cost per sq ft (Angi, 2026)	$3 to $6[3]	$5 to $25, about $15 average[4]
Typical minimum job	$300 to $700[2]	Small jobs from about $500[4]
Injection hole size	1.5 to 2.0 in[2]	0.50 to 0.63 in[2]
Time before use	About 24 hours[2]	About 15 minutes[2]
Weight added to soil	Heavy[2]	Very light[2]
Erosion	Can wash out if water flows under the slab[2]	Does not erode the same way[2]
Main install risk	Blowouts, over-lift, grout entering cracked pipes[1]	Over-lift, foam entering cracked pipes, wet foam mix[1]

A note on cost sources: Angi, HomeAdvisor and This Old House draw on one shared dataset, so we count them as one source. HomeGuide is a separate dataset. The two do not agree exactly, which is normal for national averages. Local prices vary with labor rates, access and how deep the void is.

The lifespan claims are marketing

You will see "mudjacking lasts 1 to 5 years, foam lasts 10 to 15 or more" on many contractor sites. We looked for the study behind those numbers and found none. Even large consumer cost sites state it loosely: one says mudjacking "doesn't deliver as long-term results as polyjacking" without data^[3].

Here is what the sources with an engineering basis say:

• FPA lists both mudjacking and foam injection as "a shallow repair system effected by active moving soil." Its failure lists for the two methods are nearly the same: soil moisture change, leaking sewer or water pipes under the slab, trees nearby, extreme seasonal moisture change and poor drainage^[1].
• HomeGuide says properly executed mudjacking lasts 5 to 10 years or longer, and that how long it lasts "depends more on addressing the underlying cause of settlement than on the mudjacking process itself"^[2].

So the honest answer to "which lasts longer" is: the one installed where the water problem was fixed. A foam lift on a slab that still has a downspout dumping beside it can drop again. A mud lift on a well-drained walk can hold for years.

Where mudjacking makes sense

• Large areas where the lower price per square foot adds up, such as long driveways and big patios^[2].
• Budget jobs where the extra cost of foam does not buy a real benefit.
• Sites with good drainage where washout is unlikely.

Downsides: bigger holes that show after patching, a day or more before use, and more weight on the soil. That weight matters if the soil under the slab is soft or the original settlement came from weak fill^[2].

Where polyjacking makes sense

• Visible surfaces where small patched holes look better, such as front walks and pool decks.
• Slabs that must be back in use quickly, like a single-car driveway.
• Weak or soft soils where adding hundreds of pounds of slurry could cause more settling^[2].
• Tight spaces where hoses and small equipment fit better.

Downsides: higher cost per square foot, and the fast expansion means an inexperienced crew can over-lift or crack a slab^[3]. FPA also warns that an overly wet foam mix can let water seep into expansive soil before it hardens and cause local heave^[1].

Risks that apply to both

FPA lists the same install risks for both methods^[1]:

• Over-injection that bulges or cracks the slab.
• Blowouts from too much pressure.
• Plugged utility lines. If a buried pipe has a crack or hole, grout or foam can get in and partly or fully block it. Ask the crew how they locate buried lines and whether they will check drains after the lift.
• Uneven lift when material gets trapped by roots, pipes or buried objects.

Questions to ask before you choose

1. What caused the slab to sink, and what should I fix first?
2. How deep is the void, and how will you know it is filled?
3. How many holes, how big, and how will you patch them?
4. How will you protect buried lines, sprinkler pipes and drains?
5. What does the warranty cover, for how long, and what voids it?
6. What is the price per square foot, the minimum charge, and the price if more material is needed?

For costs in more detail, see concrete leveling cost. For which method suits each surface, see leveling by surface.

When to call a pro

• Any slab that has dropped enough to trip on or that sends water toward the house.
• A slab that was already lifted once and sank again: have the drainage and soil checked before a second lift.
• Sinking concrete next to a house that also has interior cracks or sticking doors: start with a structural engineer, see slab foundation repair.